Hummer Car Parts UK - Quality Used & Genuine Parts

How to Replace Hummer Headlights

Hummer headlight replacement varies between models but follows similar principles. This guide covers H1, H2, and H3 models with procedures tailored to each vehicle's unique construction. GMC Hummer EV models require specialist attention due to integrated electronics.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Open the bonnet and secure it safely. Locate the rear of the headlight assembly from within the engine bay. On H2 and H3 models, the bonnet opens conventionally providing good access to headlight mountings. On H1 models, the military-derived design requires accessing headlights from the front as the bonnet is much smaller. Hummer vehicles are designed with maintenance accessibility in mind, though H1 requires more effort due to its unique construction.
2. Disconnect all electrical connectors. Hummer headlights typically have 2-3 electrical connectors depending on specification. These include main beam, dipped beam, and side light connections. On H2 and H3 models, press the release tabs on each connector and pull straight out. On H1 models, connectors may be more exposed to elements requiring careful inspection for corrosion. Handle connectors gently as plastic clips can become brittle with age, particularly on older H1 and early H2 models exposed to harsh off-road conditions.
3. Remove the headlight mounting bolts. Most Hummer models use 10mm or 13mm bolts to secure the headlight assembly. On H2 models, there are typically 3-4 bolts along the top edge accessible once the bonnet is open. On H3 models, expect 3 mounting bolts with straightforward access. On H1 models, mounting differs significantly due to military design with headlights integrated into grille assembly requiring removal of surrounding trim. Remove all mounting bolts completely and keep them organized for refitting.
4. Release any additional clips or retainers. Some Hummer headlights use supplementary plastic clips or metal brackets for additional security. On H2 and H3 models, check for clips at the inner and outer corners. On H1 models, the entire grille assembly may need releasing to access headlight units. Work carefully with clips as they can become brittle on older vehicles, particularly those used extensively off-road in harsh conditions where dust and debris accelerate wear.
5. Carefully remove the headlight assembly. With all bolts and clips released, gently pull the headlight straight forward or upward out of its mounting position depending on model. Hummer headlights typically have locating pins ensuring correct alignment during installation. Support the weight as you pull to prevent dropping. On H1 models, the entire grille and headlight assembly may come out together. If you feel resistance, stop and check for missed fixings rather than forcing as Hummer components are robust and shouldn't require excessive force.
6. Transfer components to new headlight if needed. If your replacement headlight doesn't include bulbs or other components, carefully transfer these from the old unit. When handling bulbs, wear clean gloves to avoid touching glass surfaces with bare hands as oils cause premature failure. On H2 and H3 models with upgraded lighting, ensure all components including reflectors and adjusters are included or transferred properly.
7. Install the new headlight assembly. Reverse the removal process by aligning the new headlight with mounting pins or grille assembly and push firmly into place ensuring all locating features engage correctly. Refit all mounting bolts and tighten securely—Hummer bolts may require more torque than lighter vehicles due to robust construction. Reconnect all electrical connections ensuring each clicks firmly into place. Test all lighting functions before final assembly including dipped beam, main beam, and side lights. Check headlight alignment using adjustment screws located on the rear of the assembly, crucial for off-road driving visibility and MOT compliance.

Important Notes: Hummer headlight replacement reflects the vehicles' utilitarian design focused on durability and serviceability. When handling new headlights, never touch lens or reflector surfaces as this affects light output. On H1 models with military heritage, components are designed for field serviceability but may require more mechanical aptitude. On H2 and H3 models, replacement is more straightforward similar to conventional SUVs. After fitting, verify proper sealing against water ingress particularly important for off-road use where water crossings are common. Proper headlight function is critical for Hummer's go-anywhere capability including night-time off-road driving.

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How to Replace Hummer Front Bumper

Replacing a Hummer front bumper ranges from straightforward on H3 to complex on H1. This process covers H2 and H3 models which share similar replacement procedures, with notes on H1's unique military-derived construction. GMC Hummer EV models require specialist attention due to integrated sensors and cameras.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Open the bonnet and secure it with the prop rod. Locate the upper bumper mounting fixings along the top edge behind the grille area. On H2 models, expect 6-8 bolts securing the bumper from above typically using 13mm or 15mm heads. On H3 models, there are usually 4-6 upper fixings with clear access. The massive chrome bumpers on H2 and rugged bumpers on H3 require substantial mounting hardware. Remove all upper fixings systematically and keep them organized by location as different areas may use different bolt lengths.
2. Access the wheel arch areas on both sides. Turn the steering wheel fully to one side to maximize access to the wheel arch liner. Behind each front wheel, locate the plastic arch liner or mud guard. On H2 and H3 models, remove or release 3-4 plastic clips or screws securing the front section to expose side bumper mounting points. Hummer's off-road design means arch liners are robust and may be secured more substantially than typical SUVs. Use appropriate tools to avoid breaking clips. Repeat this process on both driver and passenger sides.
3. Remove the side mounting screws from both wheel arches. Behind each wheel arch liner, you'll find 2-4 bolts securing each side of the bumper to the frame rails. These are usually 13mm or 15mm bolts on most Hummer models. Remove all side fixings on both sides. On H2 models with heavy chrome bumpers, these bolts carry significant weight and may be torqued tightly. On H3 models, side mounting is more straightforward. Keep track of which fixings came from which side and their orientation.
4. Remove undertray screws and lower bumper fixings. Get underneath the vehicle safely using ramps or jack stands—Hummer's generous ground clearance makes access easier than typical SUVs. Locate and remove all screws and bolts securing any skid plates, undertray panels, and lower edge of the bumper. Hummer typically uses 6-10 fixings along the bottom edge. These may be substantial bolts given the vehicle's off-road capability and need for strong mounting. On H1 models, the bumper may integrate with body protection requiring additional disassembly.
5. Disconnect fog lights and electrical connections. Reach behind the bumper and disconnect all electrical connectors including fog lights if fitted and any additional lighting. On H2 and H3 models, electrical connections are typically straightforward with standard GM-type connectors. Press release tabs carefully and pull straight out. Count how many connections you disconnect to ensure you reconnect them all during refitting. On vehicles used extensively off-road, inspect connectors for corrosion or damage from water crossings.
6. Release the bumper side brackets and mounting tabs. Hummer bumpers are secured by substantial metal brackets on each side that bolt to the frame rails, reflecting the vehicles' rugged construction. With all fixings removed, the bumper should be ready for removal but expect it to be heavy particularly on H2 models with massive chrome bumpers. Check that all mounting points are free before attempting removal. On H1 models, bumper removal may require additional steps due to integrated military-style design.
7. Remove the bumper completely from the vehicle. With all fixings removed, carefully pull the bumper straight forward away from the vehicle. Hummer bumpers are significantly heavier than typical SUV bumpers—H2 chrome bumpers are especially substantial and H3 bumpers are also robust. A second person is strongly recommended to avoid dropping and damaging the bumper or injuring yourself. The weight reflects Hummer's heavy-duty construction designed for serious off-road use and protection. Place the removed bumper on a protected surface.
8. Prepare and fit the replacement bumper assembly. Before installation, transfer any brackets, fog light assemblies, tow hooks, or other components from the old bumper if not fitted to your replacement. Hummer bumpers often integrate recovery points and protection equipment important for off-road capability. Align the new bumper with frame mounting points and push firmly into place ensuring all side brackets engage properly. Reconnect all electrical connections including fog lights. Systematically secure with all screws and bolts in reverse order of removal, using appropriate torque given the substantial weight. Test all electrical functions before final assembly. Check bumper alignment and ensure all mounting points are secure—proper bumper mounting is critical for off-road impacts and recovery operations.

Top Tips: Hummer bumpers are designed for serious off-road use reflecting the brand's go-anywhere capability. When refitting, ensure all mounting bolts are torqued properly as bumper integrity is crucial for vehicle protection during off-road use. On H2 models, the massive chrome bumpers are iconic but heavy requiring careful handling. On H3 models, bumpers are more manageable but still substantial. Inspect frame mounting points for damage or corrosion before fitting new bumper, particularly on vehicles used extensively off-road or in harsh environments. Many Hummer owners upgrade to aftermarket bumpers with integrated winch mounts and additional protection—our marketplace connects you with sellers offering both OEM and upgraded options. On H1 models, bumper replacement may require specialist knowledge due to military-derived construction.

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Common Hummer Parts Problems & Solutions

Hummer vehicles are known for extreme off-road capability and rugged construction. The H2 is the most reliable and durable Hummer with numerous examples reaching 300,000-500,000 miles and strong owner satisfaction ratings of 4.9/5 from cars.com and 4.7/5 from Kelley Blue Book. RepairPal estimates average annual repair costs at $662 for Hummer models, though actual costs vary significantly by model. However, certain components particularly on H3 and H1 models can experience specific issues. Here are the most commonly reported Hummer parts problems based on verified data from UK owners, mechanics, and industry specialists.

H3 Cylinder Head and Valve Problems (2005-2006) - Most Critical Issue:

• Widespread Problem on Early H3 Models: The 2006 H3 is the worst Hummer model year to avoid due to severe cylinder head and valve issues affecting the 3.5-litre inline five-cylinder engine. Many owners discovered valve seats wear prematurely, leading to low compression, poor performance, decreased fuel economy, and eventually complete valve failure. The problem typically appears around 87,750 miles though some owners experience issues as early as 40,000 miles which should be under warranty. CarComplaints.com logged numerous complaints about H3 leaky valves making this the most problematic Hummer issue.
• Head Gasket Failures: Compounding the valve problems, many 2006 H3 owners discovered head gaskets blow when the vehicle crosses 100,000 miles. GM didn't recall the affected vehicles, meaning many users encountered blown head gaskets after warranty expiration requiring them to pay over £2,000 for replacement. The combination of valve seat wear and head gasket failure suggests fundamental design or manufacturing defects in early H3 cylinder heads that affect both 3.5-litre and 3.7-litre five-cylinder engines.
• Symptoms and Warning Signs: Rough engine idle and poor cold starting indicating valve problems, check engine light illuminating and refusing to turn off, engine burning oil which eventually turns into visible leaks, vehicle running rough even after replacing spark plugs and performing diagnostics, loss of compression in one or more cylinders, coolant consumption without visible external leaks indicating head gasket breach, white smoke from exhaust particularly when cold, and dramatically reduced performance and fuel economy. For some users, the problem kept recurring even after replacing spark plugs, valves, head gaskets, and radiator, suggesting deeper cylinder head issues.
• Root Cause: The valve seats in 2005-2006 five-cylinder engines wear prematurely for reasons related to either material quality or design specifications. When valve seats wear, it leads to low compression and poor performance. This isn't a simple maintenance issue but rather a manufacturing defect that GM should have addressed through recall but didn't. The problem is so prevalent that encountering another owner with the same issue at service centres became common.
• Repair Costs and Solutions: Valve replacement costs average £2,580, while head gasket replacement exceeds £2,000. However, the real solution requires complete top-end rebuild including new cylinder head, valves, valve seats, and gaskets, potentially costing £3,000-£5,000 depending on extent of damage. Some owners report the problem recurring even after repairs, suggesting replacement cylinder heads may have the same fundamental issues. The only reliable long-term solution is upgrading to the 5.3-litre V8 engine available in later H3 models, which is significantly more reliable and can last over 400,000 miles according to owners.
• Prevention and Advice: Avoid 2005-2006 H3 models entirely unless you have documentation of complete cylinder head replacement with updated components. If purchasing a 2006 H3, factor £3,000-£5,000 into purchase price for inevitable cylinder head work or walk away. The 2007-2010 H3 models are significantly more reliable after GM addressed early production issues. Best H3 choice is 2009-2010 models with optional 5.3-litre V8 which avoids five-cylinder problems entirely. When buying any H3 with five-cylinder engine, have compression test performed and check for oil consumption, rough idle, or check engine lights indicating developing valve problems.

H2 Low Oil Pressure Problems (2006):

• Serious Engine Issue: The 2006 H2 commonly experiences low oil pressure problems with many owners reporting knocking noises from their engines. A few reports stated engines suffered decreased performance along with strong smell of burning oil indicating serious internal wear. This issue can lead to catastrophic engine damage if not addressed immediately as low oil pressure starves critical engine components of lubrication.
• Symptoms: Knocking or ticking noises from engine particularly when cold or under load, oil pressure warning light illuminating on dashboard, burning oil smell from engine bay, reduced engine performance, and visible oil consumption requiring frequent top-ups. Low oil pressure in 6.0-litre V8 engines can quickly lead to bearing failure and complete engine seizure if driving continues.
• Repair Costs: Repairs for low oil pressure problems can cost up to £7,000 depending on extent of damage. If caught early, oil pump replacement costs £1,500-£2,000. However, if low pressure has caused bearing damage, complete engine rebuild or replacement becomes necessary at £5,000-£7,000. This makes early detection and repair critical to avoid catastrophic failure and massive repair bills.
• Prevention: Regular oil changes using quality oil at 5,000-mile intervals rather than extending to manufacturer recommendations. Monitor oil level weekly and top up immediately if low. Pay attention to oil pressure gauge and investigate any warnings immediately. If purchasing 2006 H2, verify oil pressure is normal when cold and hot, listen carefully for any knocking sounds, and factor potential repair costs into purchase decision.

HVAC Harness Failures (2008 H3):

• Recurring Climate Control Problem: Owners of 2008 H3 Hummers struggled with A/C and heater issues stemming from HVAC harness burning out at around 90,950 miles. Numerous owners reported this is a recurring issue meaning they had to replace the harness multiple times to get the climate system working properly. The problem appears related to electrical overload or poor wire gauge in the harness causing it to overheat and fail.
• Symptoms: Complete loss of heating or air conditioning function, blower motor not operating, climate control display malfunctioning or not illuminating, burning smell from dashboard area, and intermittent operation of HVAC system. Several owners also complained blower motor itself failed around 123,000 miles requiring replacement to restore HVAC function.
• Solution: HVAC harness replacement typically costs £200-£400 for parts plus £200-£400 labor depending on accessibility. Blower motor replacement adds another £150-£300. The recurring nature of the problem suggests replacement harnesses may have the same design flaw. Some owners have success with upgrading to heavy-duty aftermarket harnesses designed to handle higher current loads without overheating.

Engine Stalling (2003-2006 H2):

• Throttle Body Issues: Engines of 2003-2006 H2s are prone to stalling according to numerous reports. The stalling is accompanied by low idle speeds causing rough running and potential safety issues if stalling occurs in traffic. While many issues can cause engine stalling, this particular problem is often resolved by simply servicing or replacing the throttle body. Carbon buildup in the throttle body restricts airflow causing irregular idle and stalling.
• Solution: Throttle body cleaning costs £80-£150 and often resolves the issue. If cleaning doesn't work, throttle body replacement costs £200-£400. This is relatively inexpensive repair but important for safety. Always bring vehicle to mechanic when engine stalls for proper diagnosis as other serious issues can cause similar symptoms.

H2 Pitman Arm Premature Failure:

• Suspension Component Wear: The H2 is a heavy vehicle putting more strain on suspension components than average cars. This leads to premature pitman arm failure, particularly on vehicles used off-road. The pitman arm connects the steering box to the center link and is critical for steering control. Off-road driving with impacts and articulation accelerates wear on this component.
• Symptoms: Wandering steering requiring constant correction, excessive play in steering wheel, clunking sounds when turning, and uneven tyre wear. Worn pitman arm compromises steering precision and can lead to dangerous loss of control particularly during emergency manoeuvres.
• Solution: Pitman arm replacement is relatively inexpensive at £150-£300 for parts and labour. However, it's important to inspect entire steering system including centre link, idler arm, and tie rods for wear. H2 owners should have steering components inspected annually particularly if vehicle is used off-road. Upgrading to heavy-duty aftermarket pitman arms provides longer service life for off-road use.

H2 Mode Door Actuator Failure:

• Climate Control Issues: H2 models commonly experience mode door actuator failures affecting HVAC system operation. The mode door actuator controls which vents air flows through—when it fails, air may only come from defrost vents regardless of settings, or system may make clicking sounds when changing modes. This is particularly common on 2003-2006 H2 models.
• Symptoms: Clicking or ticking sounds from behind dashboard when changing HVAC settings, air only flowing from certain vents regardless of mode selected, temperature control not working properly, and inability to direct air to desired vents. The actuator is located behind the dashboard requiring significant disassembly to access.
• Repair: Mode door actuator replacement costs £200-£400 for parts plus £300-£600 labour due to dashboard disassembly required. Multiple actuators control different functions, and it's common for additional actuators to fail once one goes, so inspect all while dashboard is apart.

H3 Fuel Level Sensor Malfunctions (2006-2008):

• Erratic Fuel Gauge Operation: Some 2006-2008 H3s experience fuel level sensor problems causing erratic fuel gauge operation. According to reports, fuel level sensors fail causing gauge to read incorrectly, potentially stranding drivers who think they have more fuel than actually present. Technicians recommend replacing the complete fuel pump assembly module on high-mileage H3s to resolve the issue permanently.
• Solution: Fuel pump assembly module replacement costs £400-£800 including labour. While expensive, it resolves fuel level sensor issues and provides new pump ensuring reliable operation. This is preventative maintenance worth considering on H3s approaching 100,000 miles.

H1 Cylinder Wall Cracks (6.5 Turbo Diesel):

• Most Serious H1 Problem: The H1 with 6.5-litre turbo diesel engine is notorious for cylinder wall cracks, the primary reliability issue making H1 the least reliable Hummer model. This is a serious problem that can only be remedied by complete engine replacement. The 6.5 Detroit Diesel turbo variant has fundamental design weaknesses causing cylinder walls to crack under stress.
• Prevention: H1 models with later 6.6-litre Duramax diesel engines are significantly more reliable and avoid cylinder wall problems. When purchasing H1, verify which engine is fitted and strongly prefer Duramax over 6.5 turbo diesel. If buying H1 with 6.5 turbo diesel, factor £8,000-£15,000 for inevitable engine replacement or walk away. The H1 is maintenance-intensive even without cylinder wall issues, requiring skilled mechanics familiar with military-derived systems.

Hummer Reliability Assessment:

H2 Most Reliable: The H2 is by far the most reliable and durable Hummer with numerous examples reaching 300,000-500,000 miles. Owner satisfaction ratings of 4.9/5 from cars.com and 4.7/5 from Kelley Blue Book demonstrate strong reliability. Maintenance costs are comparable to standard GM trucks making the H2 affordable to own despite its size. Best H2 model years are 2008-2009 featuring upgraded 6.2-litre V8 engine, six-speed automatic transmission, and improved interior quality. With proper maintenance, H2 provides exceptional reliability and durability for serious off-road use.

H3 Fair Reliability: The H3 offers fair reliability with J.D. Power score of 3 out of 5 for 2010 model. The inline five-cylinder GM Vortec engines are impressively reliable when they don't have valve seat issues. The optional 5.3-litre V8 is even more reliable and can last over 400,000 miles. Avoid 2005-2006 H3 models entirely due to cylinder head problems. Choose 2007-2010 models, preferably 2009-2010 with optional V8 engine for best reliability. With proper maintenance and avoiding early problematic years, H3 can reach 200,000-250,000 miles with five-cylinder or over 400,000 miles with V8.

H1 Least Reliable: The H1 is the least reliable Hummer requiring intensive maintenance and skilled mechanics. The 6.5 turbo diesel has serious cylinder wall crack issues requiring complete engine replacement. Later H1 models with 6.6 Duramax diesel are more reliable and can reach 200,000+ miles. H1 ownership requires mechanical aptitude and significant maintenance budget, but rewards with unmatched off-road capability and authentic military heritage.

GMC Hummer EV: The all-electric GMC Hummer EV is too new for long-term reliability data. Early production faced two recalls for wire insulation and seat belt issues, plus owner complaints about windshield wipers, unexpected shutdowns, and Super Cruise malfunctions. As with any new electric vehicle platform, expect growing pains. GM's Ultium battery technology is proven but Hummer EV's extreme weight and power put unprecedented demands on components. Time will tell if reliability matches classic Hummer durability.

Prevention and Maintenance: To maximize Hummer reliability, avoid 2005-2006 H3 models with cylinder head issues. Choose 2008-2009 H2 for best reliability and durability. Avoid H1 with 6.5 turbo diesel unless prepared for engine replacement. Perform regular maintenance with quality parts and fluids. Inspect suspension and steering components annually, particularly on vehicles used off-road. Address HVAC issues promptly to avoid recurring problems. Monitor oil pressure closely on 2006 H2 models. When buying used, prioritize full service history and thorough pre-purchase inspection by Hummer specialist. Despite model-specific issues, Hummer offers unmatched off-road capability and the H2 provides exceptional reliability for serious off-road enthusiasts.

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